Great Prosthetic Makeup Design Runs Through the Nose, Brow, and Jaw
Makeup designers Kazu Hiro, Mike Hill, and Dave Elsey shared with IndieWire how even minimal prosthetic applications can completely change an actor's appearance. Their work demonstrates how artistry emerges in the subtlety of facial transformation.
Prosthetic makeup can turn a person into nearly anyone — from fantastical creatures to recognizable public figures. The key lies in how designers craft and place each piece to modify the face while maintaining the performer’s expression and emotion.
The Process of Transformation
Today, most makeup design begins with a 3D scan and a full facial mold. However, not all facial regions have the same impact when altered. Adjusting areas such as the nose, brow, or jaw can significantly shift how the audience perceives the character.
Case Study: “The Smashing Machine”
For the film The Smashing Machine, Kazu Hiro studied Dwayne Johnson’s features in comparison to the real Mark Kerr to develop two different prosthetic concepts for director Benny Safdie.
“One version was heavier and more picture-accurate to Carr, while another offered a lighter impression that was quicker to apply.”
Balancing Accuracy with Performance
The designers emphasized that prosthetics should never obstruct performance. The best designs amplify what the actor can express through the silicone, preserving the human depth beneath the transformation.
Author’s résumé: The evolution of prosthetic makeup highlights how strategic design around the nose, brow, and jaw can redefine an actor’s identity without diminishing performance authenticity.